Cidade Velha (Ribeira Grande), Cabo Verde

Today we had the hotel arrange for a driver to take us out of town to visit the Ribeira Grande fortress and town (now called Cidade Velha). The town, established by the Portuguese in the 1460s, was the first colonial settlement in the tropics.

 

​“Its insular position, isolated but close to the coasts of Africa, made it an essential platform for the Atlantic trade of enslaved persons of modern times. A place of concentration of enslaved persons and the inhuman practices of the trade of enslaved persons, Ribeira Grande was also exceptional in terms of the intercultural encounters from which stemmed the first developed Creole society. The valley of Ribeira Grande experimented with new forms of colonial agriculture on the boundary between the temperate and tropical climates. It became a platform for the acclimatisation and dissemination of plant species across the world.” (source: UNESCO World Heritage list https://whc.unesco.org/en/list/1310)

(I like the terminology of “enslaved persons” instead of slaves. A reminder that these were people, not just chattel.)

​The town’s central square still has the pillory which was used to punish slaves. They would be tied to it, whipped, and left on display as a warning to others not to act up. It seems a bit weird to see this as the dominant monument in a town now populated by the descendants of people who had been enslaved.

​​We had the luck of stumbling on the town just in time for its “Nhu Santu Nomi” festival, which is in honour of the patron saint Santo Nome de Jesus. The festivities go on for days, but we were there for the highlight, which is a procession from the town square up to the ruins of the Sé Cathedral, where a church service is held. People were dressed in their Sunday best, and many were carrying chairs or stools to sit on in the church, which now consists mainly of some exterior walls. The cathedral was built between 1556 and 1705. Just as a fantastic gourmet meal takes way more time to prepare than to eat, the cathedral was pillaged just seven years after construction completed! 

We walked past the wonderful smells emanating from enormous pots in yards and on the street where women were chatting and cooking for the festivities. Past the beach dotted with colourful boats and children playing in the water. Past chickens and goats wandering freely through the town. Along Rua Banana, the first cobbled street in the town. Many of the original stone houses still stand and are still lived in. /div>

Overall, a peaceful, happy afternoon.